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Playa Zipolite, Oaxaca, Southern Mexico

2001


What is Zipolite? Lyoban' explains...

ZIPOLITE HISTORY:

A long, long time ago, Zipolite beach was usually visited by the Zapotecans...who made it a magical place. They used to visit Zipolite to meditate, or just to rest.

More recently, in the 60´s, Zipolite was rediscovered by young people, who were from all parts the this earth, and recognized as the 'Hippies'. Hippies found in this magical place a great charm for living, in peace, together, and with the few native locals. They 'began' a new touristic concept.

The visitors, some Italians, French and Germans, and other countries, made Zipolite their home.

These new visitors had a strong interest in keeping in touch with nature, and an extensive valor for the rustic life. Far from the modern worlds complications and comforts, and a great attraction for the open-minded life style, minimizing the culture differences, languages, and beliefs.

ZIPOLITE TODAY:

The town of Zipolite is a center of houses that offers hosting services, restaurants, bars, discos, shops, and 'more', for its visitors. Today a visit to Zipolite becomes a special adventure. Today, ZIPOLITE Beach, Playa Zipolite, is an experience that any young person, or just young at heart, will never forget, and will cherish with age.

Playa Zipolite, Oaxaca, Mexico, on the Pacific Ocean...a little bit about my favorite little get-away on this world Zipolite, a sweaty 30-minute walk west from Puerto Angel, brings you to Zipolite (Beach of the Dead) and another world. The feeling here is 1970's - Led Zep, Marley, scruffy gringos, and lots of dope. Recently, this beach has begun to receive day-trippers from Puerto Angel and Escondido, giving it a more touristy feel than before. Most people come here for the novelty of the nude beach, the drug scene, or to see how long they can stretch their skinny budget. Nudity is common on the western end of the beach, and the southern section, known as Playa del Amore, has a pretty active gay scene. Be EXTREMELY cautious about swimming here: The name Beach of the Dead refers not, as some seem to think, to the Grateful Dead, but to the many lost to its currents every year.

PALAPAS LAS ROCKAS...MY FAVORITE HANGOUT AT ZIPOLITE...Hammocks about $1US (10 pesos), Palapas about $5US (50 pesos), plus the new 3rd and 4th floor Palapa which cost my friend Ricky an I $5US each, per night (50 pesos each). The palapa included a large room with Full size bed, solar closet to dry your swim wear fast, and keep your clothes dry, a balcony with hammock (GREAT VIEW! you are at and above the Coconut trees, and a sun deck on the 4th floor as big as your room down below. Sooooo cool! Also located right OVER :) the beach, downtown Zipolite, behind the church, next door to Lyoban Hostal. Suzanna, the owner and cook, her husband owns a fishing boat at Puerto Angel (fresh seafood! I recommend Suzanna's cooking with 5 STARS!), Valle who runs the palapas will serve your every needs, and I mean your EVERY need.

WHERE TO SLEEP AND EAT: Hammocks in a communal palapa on the beach fetch $1 US, double that amount if you want a little privacy. Extras you will pay for include fans, mosquito netting, and security boxes where available. In places, flush toilets are rare, and while showers or regaderas are abundant, in some places there's no water. (you need to shop around). Ask before you pay. Some people never stray from the sand, but the Posadas (Inns) up in the hills merit the diversion.

One of the coolest is SHAMBALA, also known as Gloria's, on the hillside at the western end of the beach. Sprwling over most of the cliff, the posada has meditation altars, a cafe, and a patio restaurant serving mostly vegetarian food. Spectacular views of a hidden bay are an extra bonus. Despite the owner's requests, drug use is all too common here. Your lodging options range from a beach cabana ($7.50 US) to a hammock hook ($1 US) and no one is turned away for lack of space. Luggage storage and a safe-deposit box are provided. Lo Cosmico, just east of Shambala, offers clean, cool palapas slung with two hammock for $6.50 US. Open-air terraces with hammocks are slightly cheaper. Zipolite has no market, but the cheapest and best eats can be found right in your hotel. You can get a California-style granola breakfast in Shambala's restaurant, or try their tasty chicken mole or vegetarian turnovers (each about $2.50 US). For Pizza, try Gemini's on the eastern end of the beach (I always stay at Palapa Las Rockas, the inn to the east, just past the Disco next door. Every one is welcome at Palapa Las Rockas (look for the rocks in the surf, kind of in the middle of the beach) and what ever you want, just ask....Zero will get it for you. Fresh seafood, pancakes, and Oaxaca cuisine just for your likeing). Gemini's serves an exquisite slice of pie for $1 US. A battalion of palapas catering to travelers loom on the beach, serving seafood and tortilla dishes.

COMINGS and GOINGS: Buses (30 min, 50 cents US) run to Zipolite from Puerto Angel and Pochutla approximately every half hour 6AM - 8PM. If coming from Puerto Escondido, you can avoid Pochutla by jumping off the bus at the crossroads for San Antonio on Highway 200, where you can catch a direct bus to Manzunte or Zipolite (20 minutes, $.25 cents US). It is hard to find taxi's out of Zipolite after 9PM (although Zero at Palapas Las Rockas can order you one any time of the day, of course for a small tip). Taxis between Pochutla and Zipolite cost about $2.50US) Zipolite attitude: Be, or let be....Straight, Gay, Surfer, Nudist, Naturalist, Beach, Sun Seekers, Hippie, International...FRIENDLY! Be, or let be! So cool! Remember...ALL ARE WELCOME AT ZIPOLITE!

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