Naturist Painting and Holistic Holiday

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Escola de Arte de Ferragudo
Naturist Painting & Holistic Holidays, Portugal

September 2003

Clothing and Paintbrushes Optional in Portugal.

What does a naturist artist wear at the Airport? We were being met by our host David, who, with his wife Frances and their children, run Escola de Arte de Ferragudo, our clothing optional holiday destination. It had been a long and tiresome flight and after a disgustingly early start, leaving a non-existent spring day in a miserable wet and windy northern European airport, we couldn't wait to get out in the warm sun, preferably around a swimming pool with a glass of chilled wine.

But where was David? We had sent on our photos by email so that we could be easily recognised for collection from Faro Airport, but so far no sign of our host. "Welcome, welcome, a hundred apologies, but I just had to finish the yellow orker on her right buttock." This must be David, larger than life, a paint splattered flowing beard, battered straw Stetson and tattered shorts that had defiantly seen better days and a tent sized shirt that must have started life as a work of art but was now a brave imitation of a paint rag. Apologies and introductions over, baggage collected, our good friends, Inger and Lennart, my partner Elle and I were squeezed into David's jeep for the last leg of our journey, juggling with the local traffic on the 50 kilometre journey westward to the picturesque fishing village of Ferragudo.

We managed to suppress our curiosity and urge to explore the harbour and quayside, which looked as if it had been unchanged for generations we soon found ourselves at the gates of the Quinta da Horta. A life seized statue of Queen Leonora, a religious effigy serenely watches over the Quinta's gates and locals regularly leave posies of flowers, whilst pausing of a few moments of quiet meditation, we continued up the driveway. Here was Frances reciting tonight's menu whilst showing us to our charming flower filled room. Her greeting could not have been warmer in contrast to the welcoming bottle of crisp cool vino verde a young slightly sparkling green wine, a speciality of the region, which had been left on our veranda, in the shade of a hundred year old palm.

Inger and Lennart, had a similar cottage on the other side of the courtyard and soon joined us for our first visit to the pool. Our friends were a little nervous, for although my partner Elle and I have spent many holidays at naturist resorts in Spain and France, this would be their first experience of a clothing free holiday. One of the reasons that had led us to choose Quinta da Horta was its clothing optional policy as opposed to an all out naturist centre. A quick glance around the pool and terrace area gave the impression that although the majority of our fellow guests seemed to have forgotten their swimming costumes there were quite a few guests who had splashed out on a new suite! We did notice that after a few days the number of swimming suites seemed to have shrunk considerably. Whether this was the influence of the plentiful supply of excellent wine that accompanied our dinner or the relaxed and friendly atmosphere giving the more reserved guests the confidence to fully enjoy the warn sunny days and balmy evenings.

After a pleasant afternoon around the pool and a couple of sets of tennis as the sun began to lose some of its fierceness, we were pleased and ready to join our fellow guests for the customary pre diner cocktails. The sun was setting over the orange grove the famous long table was being laid up for dinner. This proved to be a very informal affair, without too much time wasted in dressing for diner. Informal it may have been but never the less the meal was exquisite. "The Quinta and its surrounding farms produce most of what we consume here" explained David, "Nearly everything we eat is grown by ourselves or our neighbours, when ever possible we use real organic food and avoid wine that has been treated with chemicals." As dinner continued we were able to ascertain from our dinning companions that most of them were regular at the Quinta, which welcomes visitors with a wide range of interests from reflexoligy to riekie, yoga, naturism, aromatherapy and a wide range of arts. There were also a fair few sportsmen and women around the table.

Ferragudo boasts unrivalled water sports facilities and there are two first class golf courses just a short walk away. The Quinta has its own tennis court and they have guest facilities at the local club so any visitors who find David's game a little slow can always be accommodated. Dinner had been a true gourmet experience, starting with delightful shrimp bisque, a creamy soup made from fresh local shrimps simmered in white port with wild garlic. To follow a delicate goats cheese tart filled with quails eggs and wild woodland mushrooms and purple basil. The main course, strait from the char grill a large platter of pork ribs in a rich plum sauce and corn cobs that had been dancing in the sun only hours before and now served dripping in a thick yoghurt and chive sauce. To finish Frances tempted our flagging palettes with one of her signature desserts, a summer pudding made from the Quinta's famous mulberry tree and alpine strawberries topped with her thick cream, vanilla and lemon ice cream. It seemed hard to believe but there was even more to follow. A dish of Strellas, a Portuguese traditional sweet, made from pressed dried figs with blanched almonds made in the shape of a star, soon disappeared. Followed by a large flask of freshly brewed coffee and small keg of a rather fiery local brandy.

Ready for bed, we declined an invitation to join our dinner companions for a walk to the village square to join the dancing to the traditional folk musicians who often perform there. Other guests were settling down for a little chat and reminiscing about past travels. Before we had gone to sleep we distinctly heard the faint sound of splashing. Someone was taking advantage of the warm night air to enjoy a midnight swim. Early to bed, early to rise, I don't know if it was the absence of the normal cacophony of traffic noise that had us up with the larks or, for us, the unusual, sounds of cockerels, frogs, the odd parrot or two and several local dogs.

Anyway we decided to take advantage of the cool of the early morning for a stroll down to the fishing boat harbour to try and get a few photos of the mornings catch being unloaded. Back at the Quinta a large pine table was sagging dangerously under the buffet breakfast that was being set up. With no chance of going short on food we decided on a quick swim before breakfast. Our skin still dripping from the pool, we were soon dryed by the sun and able to help ourselves from a mountain of fresh picked fruit, delicious bread, still hot, crusty and strait from the oven, accompanied by an incredible range of home made jams and compotes. A heavy earthen ware pot contained Frances's thick and creamy fresh yoghurt and after our early morning exercise it did not take much persuasion to accept the offer of a plate of the Quinta's own bacon and some freshly laid, incredibly light scrambled eggs. There were a wide variety of teas on offer, including a special mimosa flower tea grown in the orchard. Again the coffee jug seemed bottomless and if we were concerned with our caffeine intake there was plenty of fresh squeezed orange juice available.

After breakfast we decided to join a party of guests who we off to the west coast surfing beaches always popular with naturists. Cars loaded with sun umbrellas, boogie boards an of course the all-important cold box with the odd beverage or two, we were off. The drive over the Monchique Mountains, has spectacular rural and forest views and passes ruined castles and sleepy villages, takes just under an hour. The last 5 kilometres is on a good dirt road. We arrived at a wide sandy bay, stretching for miles with spume topped rollers crawling up the beach. We had this beach to ourselves but even in peak season you are unlikely to be in a crowd. Both the boards and umbrellas were put to good use for the rest of the day. We can't wait to receive some of the photos taken by our fellow guests, who have promised to send them on, after the ritualistic exchange of addresses.

The Escola de Arte de Ferragudo now has its own web site publishing a changing selection of photos sent in by guests at http://www.naturist-holidays-portugal.com. As the sun began to sink over the horizon it was back to the Quinta in time for a quick shower and some sundowner cocktails before another memorable diner.

It had been another tiring day but somehow we managed to find a new reserve of energy to join some of our fellow guests, who were off on the town. They had booked a taxi for the ten minute drive to the nearby beach resort of Praia da Rocha, full of bright lights, disco and a casino Some hours latter we were again ready for bed. Tomorrow's descision: To laze around the pool and gardens with a good book? To drive east to explore the islands of Culatra and Taveria, one of Portugal's first "official" naturist beaches and visit the beautiful gardens of the Palace of Estoi? To drive north to the historic walled city of Silves with it's fine Castle and Cathedral and on across the mountains to the scenic lake of Santa Clara? To take the 10 minute walk south to the main village beach and then along the cliff path with it's hundreds of hidden coves only accessible by step windy paths but giving access to some wonderful snorkelling beaches. Decisions, decisions, this was going to be one tough holiday to crack; not a chance of getting bored!.

It was obvious we couldn't fit everything in on this holiday so we've booked another week for later in the year. Who knows next time I may even get round to trying my hand at one of the art courses..

Holiday Facts: Prices (2003): Prices per person per day, including breakfast and diner with wine and cocktails, is €42.50 based on two sharing double room or €27.50 bed and breakfast. There is one self catering cottage with 2 double bedrooms and a sofa in the living room, kitchen and bathroom and private courtyard garden with grill €590.00 per week. Low season 20% discount ( May & October) Contacts: Escola de Arte de Ferragudo. Frances and David Fry. Quinta da Horta, Rua do Regato, 8400 231 Ferragudo. (Portugal-351) 282461395 T:M:914156551.: e-mail: enquiries@naturist-holidays-portugal.com Website: http://www.naturist-holidays-portugal.com. Inclusive holidays for clubs and groups can be arranged, ask for details. Getting There: We are about 65 kilometres (35 miles) or 50 minutes from Faro airport, Airport collection or car rental can be arranged at special rates.

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