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Kauai Trip Report in Hawaii.

2002

Kauai is the northernmost of the Hawaian Islands. We stayed in a (very) textile bed and breakfast in Princeville whose name is not worth mentioning.

We had 3 naturist adventures:

1. Secret Beach. One of the most breathtaking beaches I have ever been to. It is a little tricky to find. The main Kauai road is a circumferential road that goes almost all the way around the island, except for the impassable NaPali coast of the northwest corner of the island. The airport is in Lihue, on the east coast. To get to Secret from Lihue, you go to the first (most eastern) Kalihiwai Rd. and go north (right from Lihue, left from Princeville). This is the first road after the road to the Kilauea Lighthouse and Wildlife Preserve (which is worth the trip, clothed, unless you find albatrosses and boobies boring). Take the first dirt road, a right turn and follow the road to the end. You will see parked cars and a sign to the beach. You now walk down a steep, slippery, sometimes muddy path - take a walking stick - for about 5 minutes, and you reach the westernmost part of the beach. Secret consists of 3 beaches, separated by lava flows. The first is about 50% nude and 80% topfree. The second and third are 90% nude. DISCLAIMER: Public nudity is outlawed in Hawaii. We were told that sometimes the police come and give warnings, and rarely, tickets. We did not see any fuzz in 3 trips to the beach. The waves were huge; one guidebook says it is suicide to swim there in the winter. We saw a few surfers in the water. There is a fresh water waterfall near the easternmost part of the beach that is good for washing off salt and sand. There are no services: pack in everything, pack out everything. The people at the beach are very friendly. A few live on the beach in some ramshackle huts - also illegal. Caution: there are 2 Kalihiwai roads - you must take the more eastern of the two.

2. Larsen's beach. This beach is much easier to get to than Secret - Take Koolau Rd (this intersects the highway twice, so take it in the direction you are driving!) and then go north on the only public dirt road. Drive as far as you can, and park at the end of the road. There is a gentle (as opposed to the steep) path at Secret, and the water is protected by a reef so it is possible to snorkel. However, the sand is thinner, and the site far less beautiful. It was clothing optional at either end, and pretty textile in the middle; many fewer people than at Secret.

3. Auntie Angeline. This is a new-agey spa that offers a unique Hawaian Lomi Lomi treatment. Finding it is a challenge: it doesn't advertise, it doesn't have a web site, and it is listed in the white pages under Losey, Angeline, the original founder. Span and massage are not mentioned in the white pages listing. I finally found the number on the web, 808.822.3235. They don't answer the phone while they are working - but they will call you back. When we were there they didn't have a slot, but one opened up. I suggest that if you are interested you make a reservation before you arrive in Kauai.

The spa is in Anahola - at this point the main road is going north/south. You go east (toward the ocean) on Hokuolele Rd (just after the general store) and make the first right. Just before the stop sign you will see a dirt and gravel road with a sign that says 'park here'. (Note, the sign does not say 'Angeline' or 'Spa'). You will see a path and a little sign that says 'this way' and you walk down the path into a grove. Another sign says 'aloha' and a last sign says 'entrance'. The welcome lady gives you a glass of water and a pareo. The place is very nonchalant about clothing. You are asked to change into the pareo that they give you, and take a shower if you want. The shower is a public, outdoor shower with 2 spouts, like a locker room.

It starts with a salt scrub in a very hot steam bath, then a massage in a cooler steam bath. Both rooms have two tables, and you disrobe regardless of the sex of the occupant of the other table (unless you are very fussy). Both the scrub and the main massage are done by two people simultaneously. It is world class relaxing, and a deep enough massage to get some knots out. The steam feels great. Afterwards you just feel like hanging out (clothing optional). I was massaged by a man and a woman. My wife was massaged by two women.

Afterwards I saw my masseuse go into the steam room unclothed, and work on another woman. I asked her what determines whether she works with clothing on or off and she said that her current client was also her girlfriend! But the experience is absolutely non-sexual. Most of the staff are related to the now-retired Auntie Angeline, who founded the spa and set the clothing-optional tone. I found finding it frustrating, but having gotten there worth the hassle. I found it magical, but my wife thought the massage was a little rough. I will certainly do it again if I ever go back to Kauai.

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